Overgrown, Gnarled Head

by Anthony Brunello, Sacramento
photo by Haley Brunello

I have heard that in the movie Sideways the hero likens himself to the characteristics of the tempermental and fragile Pinot Noir grape while eschewing the straight-forward pleasures of the noble Merlot grape.  I have never seen the movie, I do not want it to persuade my tastes.  Like when a friend announces with sheer bravado that this Malbec has hints of leather and tobacco and you suddenly taste cowhide and rollies as you sip.
Zanini Demijohns
However I digress, I cannot liken or dis either grape; Pinot to delicate and Merlot makes a great peasant’s wine to be enjoyed over a siesta lunch. For any amateur oenophile, I think we can all find attributes of ourselves in certain grape varietals such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet even Thompsons seedless. For example Mickey Rourke can be thought of as the once thought extinct Carméneré, who is quietly yet succesfully making a comeback.

A superficial and easy out for myself would be to claim Brunello di Montalcino however I am Brunello di CastelFranco. That is why I would like to think of myself as the overgrown, gnarled head and ‘old vines’ Zinfandel.  Worldly, genetically similiar to its Italian counterpart Primitivo and linked to the Croatian Crljenak. Brought here and raised by the sweat of immigrants looking for a new beginning. Truly Californian yet stretching deep into the loam like a hardened dry farmed soul searching for a link to the Old World that will  inevitablly keep me true to my roots. Pleasing to some and outright offensive to others.

I welcome to hear your thoughts on what grape varietal you think you are or if you know of some great Zins. Together with the legend of terroir and magic of modern day wine industry propaganda the choices are endless.

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